RECREATION
It turns out that “Schuylkill” is pronounced more like “skoogle” than like “sheyulkel.” As in, “The Schuylkill River Trail is a strange dichotomy of serene and hectic, with the scenic waterfront on one side and a 4 lane highway on the other. There should be more water fountains.”
DINING
Honey’s Sit’n'Eat: ostensibly Jewish-Southern Fusion, although we felt like the cuisine was more combined than fused. They featured both Matzo Ball Soup and Fried Green Tomatoes, but nothing along the lines of Latkes and Sausage Gravy, or Deep Fried Brisket. The waiters were unbearably hip, and Honey’s does not accept credit cards. But there was a note in the bathroom about how to flush the antique toilet, which I found endearing.
Some Cheese Steak Restaurant with “John” in the title: According to one native Philadelphian*, this is the only place in the city that doesn’t serve low-quality beef on low-quality bread with Cheez Whiz. The sandwiches are humongous and delicious. It was in a decidedly untouristy part of town between I-95 and a Blockbuster, and the cook was impatient to the point of being rude, so I’m pretty sure it was authentic. No free water.
*neither of those adjectives is true
TRANSPORTATION
Wasn’t crazy about the trains, mostly because of some confusion about when the last train was going back to Mount Airy. We thought it was closer to 1:30, they thought it was more like midnight.
The system is almost unbelievably archaic, too. It doesn’t accept credit cards, and one buys little metal tokens to get on the subway. On trains going out to the edge of the city, a conductor comes around with a hole punch. It would be cute if a one-way ticket didn’t cost 5 dollars. (I think Philadelphia has no money.)
TOURIST ATTRACTIONS
I was EXTREMELY disappointed by the Liberty Bell.
**Corrections
Liberty Bell notwithstanding, I really loved Philadelphia. Our hosts were gracious and badass, the pizza was icy cold, and the beer was herby and delicious. The Something Corporate show (NOT Taking Back Sunday) was an embarrassing blast from my early high school past. It’s a great city to bike in, and if New Orleans sinks into the ocean (and I very much hope that it does not), then Philadelphia will be high on my list of places to live.
And to all you scrapple virgins out there- Stop it.